Five months into living in the Netherlands as a programmer, I'm finally starting to feel like I have a handle on what life here is actually like. Before moving, I had this idealized vision shaped by articles about Dutch work-life balance and the thriving European tech scene. The reality is more nuanced, and I want to share what I've learned.
The Tech Scene: Smaller But Growing
Coming from [or reading about] major tech hubs, the Dutch tech scene is different. It's not Silicon Valley, and it's not trying to be.
What I've Found:
- Amsterdam has a vibrant startup ecosystem, but it's smaller and tighter-knit than I expected
- There's a strong focus on fintech, e-commerce, and increasingly, AI/ML
- The tech community feels more collaborative than competitive
- English is widely spoken in tech, but Dutch language skills definitely help for deeper integration
The Opportunities:
- Growing AI/ML scene with research institutions like CWI and universities
- Companies ranging from startups to big tech (Booking.com, Adyen, etc.)
- Increasing remote work opportunities connecting you to broader European market
- Active meetup culture and tech events
The Work Culture Shock
The Dutch approach to work is... different. It took me a while to adjust.
What Surprised Me:
Direct Communication: The Dutch are famously direct. Feedback is straightforward, almost blunt by some cultural standards. As a programmer, this means code reviews are efficient but can feel harsh initially.
Meetings Start On Time: If a meeting is at 10:00, it starts at 10:00. Not 10:05. Not 10:02. 10:00.
Actual Work-Life Balance: People really do leave at 5:30 PM. They take their vacation days. Working late isn't seen as dedication - it's seen as poor time management. This was hard to internalize at first.
Consensus Culture: Decision-making involves more discussion and consensus-building than I was used to. It can feel slow, but decisions stick better once made.
Hierarchy is Flat: Junior developers can (and should) challenge senior developers' ideas. Your title matters less than your arguments.
The Financial Reality
Let's talk about money, because this is important for anyone considering moving here.
Salaries:
- Entry-level developer: €35k-50k
- Mid-level developer: €50k-70k
- Senior developer: €70k-90k+
- The 30% ruling (tax break for skilled migrants) helps significantly if you qualify
Cost of Living:
- Rent in Amsterdam: €1,500-2,500/month for a decent one-bedroom (yes, really)
- Rent in other cities (Utrecht, Rotterdam, Eindhoven): €1,000-1,800/month
- Groceries: €200-300/month if you cook
- Health insurance: €120-150/month (mandatory)
- Public transport: €50-100/month, or just cycle everywhere
The Math: Salaries are lower than US tech hubs, but you get healthcare, better work-life balance, and strong social safety nets. It's a different value proposition.
The Housing Crisis
I need to be honest: finding housing is probably the hardest part of living here.
- Extremely competitive rental market, especially in big cities
- Landlords often require proof of income (3-4x monthly rent)
- Waiting lists for social housing can be years long
- Buying is difficult with high prices and Dutch mortgage requirements
- Many people end up in temporary housing or shared apartments initially
This is probably my biggest frustration living here. Have a housing strategy before you move.
The Lifestyle Perks
Once you're settled, there are genuine upsides:
Cycling Everywhere: No car needed. Cities are designed for bikes. It's genuinely faster and more pleasant than driving for most trips.
Travel Access: Weekend trips to Paris, London, Berlin, Brussels are cheap and easy. Living in Europe means really living in Europe.
English Friendly: In tech circles and cities, English works fine. Learning Dutch helps long-term, but you won't be isolated without it.
Safety and Quality of Life: Low crime, good infrastructure, clean cities, reliable public services.
The Coffee Culture: Incredible café culture. Good coffee, nice work-from-café options, social spaces.
The Weather Reality
Let's not sugarcoat this: the weather is... grey. A lot.
- Winters are dark (sunset at 4:30 PM) and rainy
- Summers are pleasant but unpredictable
- You learn to plan around weather, not with it
- Vitamin D supplements become your friend
- But houses are well-insulated and cozy
The Dutch have a word, "gezellig," that captures the cozy, warm atmosphere they create to counteract the grey. You learn to embrace it.
Integration Challenges
The Netherlands is expat-friendly, but integration takes effort:
- Making Dutch friends as an adult can be challenging
- Most of your social circle might be other internationals initially
- Bureaucracy is extensive (and everything requires DigiD)
- Learning Dutch helps significantly with feeling integrated
- The expat bubble is real and easy to stay in
The Visa Situation
For non-EU citizens, understanding visa options is crucial:
- Highly Skilled Migrant visa is most common for tech workers
- Sponsorship requirements from employers
- Orientation year visa for recent graduates of top universities (including Dutch ones)
- Path to permanent residency after 5 years
Post-Brexit, UK citizens now need visas too. If you're from the EU, you have freedom of movement, which simplifies everything.
My Honest Take
Would I recommend the Netherlands for programmers? It depends on what you value.
Come here if you want:
- Actual work-life balance
- Access to European lifestyle and travel
- Stable, quality life with good public services
- Growing tech scene with opportunities
- Bike-friendly cities and walkable neighborhoods
Maybe reconsider if you prioritize:
- Maximum salary potential (US pays more)
- Warm, sunny weather
- Easy housing markets
- Very large tech ecosystem with massive companies
- Low taxes (though the social benefits offset this somewhat)
For AI/ML Specifically
As someone with an AI MSc, the Netherlands offers:
- Strong academic research institutions
- Growing AI startup scene
- European AI regulation work (interesting if you care about AI governance)
- Less saturated than some other markets
- English-language opportunities in most AI/ML roles
The salaries might not match San Francisco, but the complete package - quality of life, healthcare, work culture, location - creates a different kind of value.
Final Thoughts
Living in the Netherlands as a programmer has been an adjustment, but mostly a positive one. The housing market is genuinely difficult, and I miss sunshine more than I expected. But the quality of life, the work culture, and being in Europe have been worth it.
The tech scene is smaller, but that means it's easier to build a network and make an impact. You're not just another developer in a sea of thousands - you can actually get to know the community.
If you're considering making the move, come with realistic expectations about salaries and housing, but also with openness to a different pace of life. The Netherlands won't make you rich quickly, but it might make you live better.
And hey, you'll get really good at cycling in the rain. That's a life skill, right?
Have questions about life here or considering the move yourself? Feel free to reach out - happy to share more specific insights.